Winter Solstice

What do you do when winter solstice falls in the middle of the week?
Why, you go camping of course!

With tarps pitched by 9pm we spent the rest of the warm night in our sheltered possie relaxing on the carpet of soft rimu leaves, four alcohol stoves providing a pleasant bonfire ambience. Dan even furnished fruit cake and custard to celebrate mid-winter!

The rain set in at 2am and immediately I could think of half a dozen better configurations for my fly. Not that I got wet exactly, just a bit of misty spray when gusts of wind came. Up at 5:45am to quickly decamp and head in to the city in time for work.

A Friday Haiku

Leave work Friday night;
Camp in the bush, talk with friends.
Rain on fly. Ah, bliss.

Inspired by Ricky Baker (Hunt for the Wilderpeople)

A Microadventure - 24 Hours at Whatipu

Microadventure: An overnight outdoor adventure that is small and achievable, for normal people with real lives.

"Adventure is the spirit of trying something new, trying something difficult. Above all, adventure is about enthusiasm, ambition, open-mindedness and curiosity. “Adventure” is not only rowing oceans or cycling round the world. Adventure is everywhere, every day and it is up to us to seek it out. 

We all have to pragmatically juggle the commitments and constraints of our “real lives”. But we can still have a microadventure. Because you do not need to fly to the other side of the planet to find wilderness and beauty. 

Adventure is stretching yourself, doing something you do not normally do, and doing it to the best of your ability. Getting out into the wild, if only for one night, is enjoyable, invigorating and important."   ~ Alastair Humphreys

A glorious 3 hour trail run through the Waitakere Ranges kicked the weekend off well. After a relaxed picnic lunch it was time for exploration. Along the trail past the Whatipu caves, ancient sea caves which are now more than a kilometre from the ocean. From here a lightly worn path skirting the edge of the swamp beneath impressive cliffs beckoned. Shoes soon came off to wade around and climb over a small rock promontory. From here it was barefoot. Oh the bliss of warm grass beneath the feet and mud squelching between the toes! The air was laden with the heady scent of spring flowers.

Back at the carpark I basked in the warm, golden sunshine until the chill of late afternoon began creeping in. It was time to make my move. A quick bite to eat and then I shouldered my pack and headed up the hill. Suddenly doubts assailed me: "Am I really doing this?", "Why not head home to a warm bed?", "This is crazy!". The urge to turn around, hop in the car and drive home was surprisingly strong. Resolutely I set my face and continued upwards. From the lookout at the entrance to the Manukau Harbour I had a magnificent view, with the landscape bathed in golden light as the sun sank towards the horizon. Watching the sun dip into the Tasman Sea I realised why I had come: to immerse myself in the beauty.

As twilight fell I headed down to Wing Head, the old site of the Signal Master's house. Here there was a relatively flat grassy area with nice thick kikuyu for a mattress. The full moon was incredibly bright - no torch was necessary all night! I lay back, sheltered from the chilly breeze, and watched the stars flicker.

Eventually it was time to retire into my warm sleeping bag and the old japara sleeping bag cover which had been dragged from the depths of our store cupboard. I slept surprisingly well, managing a full 8 hours (albeit slightly broken) and awoke refreshed and bright eyed in the morning. To open my eyes and see the beach, bush and ocean in the clear early morning light was an incredible sensation. The world was so clean and fresh, and mine alone to enjoy. I was alive! I reveled in the cool morning breeze, drinking in as much as I could of my surroundings.

All too soon my hunger prodded me back to the car for breakfast. But I was in no hurry to head home so after satiating my hunger I wandered out onto Whatipu Beach. This is a vast, rugged, windswept expanse of iron-sand coastline stretching north for kilometres.

And I and the seabirds had it to ourselves.

The Legend

They say curiosity killed the cat. It also killed my calves.

Marathons are often regarded by non-runners (and many runners) as the pinnacle event of running and having never completed an official marathon before I thought The Legend marathon would be a good opportunity to fix this omission. I was curious to see what a road race was like compared to trail running - I know I am not fast on the road, but how hard could it be? After all it is only 42km. The Legend course follows the famous training route of Sir Arthur Lydiard from New Lynn, up West Coast Road through Waiatarua, and down Scenic Drive.

Cycling 4km from home to the start line was a perfect warm up. The heavy rain overnight had cleared but the cloud was hanging low around the treetops. We set off at 6:30am and I was surprised by the comfortable pace with which most of the pack started out. I had expected to be spat out the back fairly quickly. The first 7km loop along Portage Road, Margan Ave, Titirangi Road, and Golf Road was extremely familiar territory as my usual morning run covers much of the same route. My game plan for the day was to run conservatively, especially on the downhills, as I knew from training that my ankles and calves were going to take a pounding. 41 minutes saw me back on Portage Rd after the 7km loop.

Assembling at the start line

Back along Margan Ave and over to West Coast Road. There was a bit of traffic through Glen Eden so all the intersections required care. My left calf started to feel a bit niggly along here. It had been very sore after my two long training runs so I nursed it carefully for the next few kilometres. As each 2km marker was passed I amused myself by calculating what proportion of the race was left (and other trivial statistics). As we started the long climb up to Scenic Drive I chatted to a couple of other runners; one of whom was a road runner but didn't know the course, and the other was a fellow local first-time marathoner. We settled in for the long haul and steadily climbed up through the cloud. The steep pinch just before Forest Hill Road was a good opportunity to ease off to a walk and take a gel.

Old Titirangi Road (about 4km in)

After 2 hours the top of West Coast Road was reached and we turned left onto Scenic Drive (20km) and were able to stretch out our legs on the gentle descent. Along Scenic Drive I ran with Graeme from the Wairarapa who had traveled up especially for the event. It was nice to be surrounded by native bush but unfortunately we were still in the cloud so there were no scenic views from Scenic Drive. Not much traffic along this stretch (which was nice) just the occasional car, often supporters. The gravel of Exhibition Drive provided a welcome relief from pounding the tarmac and gave the feet a bit of respite. Going out and back to each end of Exhibition meant a chance to see many of the other runners, including several familiar faces. This is the first time I have ever considered the flat part of the course to be the most enjoyable!

Heading over to West Coast Road
(on Croydon Road, 10km)

I ate half a banana while walking up Shaw Road back to Scenic Drive. The sun had briefly broken through the cloud but the first of several showers rolled in just as we hit the road. From here there are just a couple of undulations and then it is all downhill and flat to the finish. The steep descent down Godley Road was hard on the legs and I reined my stride in to minimise the pounding. Reegan gave me a high-five out the car window as they were driving home up the hill. The road through Green Bay is dead straight so you could see almost to the finish. Time for one last effort for the final 2km. I crossed the line in 4:05 hours. My anticipated time was 4:20 so I was quite happy with my time. The gentle cycle home loosened up my legs a little but couldn't shake the tightness out of my calves and ankles.

Thanks to Photos4Sale for the opportunity to race. I am glad to have done The Legend and put another tick on my bucket list, but my curiosity about road racing has been well and truly satisfied.

A big thanks also to the air cadets who were out marshalling all morning. The smiles and encouragement at all the intersections were much appreciated. Cheers from the supporters all around the course made me smile (especially the YMCA ladies with their red wigs!).

Event website
Map
Results



Photos

My worst running blister ever.
I've run in the same shoes & socks countless times and never had a problem before.

The Hillary Video

Enjoy a taste of The Hillary Ultra 2014.
There is some fantastic footage with plenty of amazing aerial scenes from Matt's quadrocopter.


The Hillary 2014 - The very first ever from smart as productions on Vimeo.

The Hillary

The Hillary – 80km of pure Waitakere Ranges goodness from Arataki to Muriwai. 
Naturally I was keen to race in my training ground, and when photos4sale offered me an entry a month before I jumped at the chance. I have completed the Hillary Trail 3 times before but always in the opposite direction (Muriwai – Arataki). A time of 12 hours was my rough estimate but I was unsure how I would perform with the limited training I had done. Local knowledge was definitely a huge advantage and I can honestly say that I enjoyed every single step of the way.

The short 2km loop around the Arataki nature trail was a good warm up before getting on to the Hillary Trail proper down Slip Track. Generally I am pretty good at not starting out too fast, but the excitement was contagious and I had to keep reminding myself to just run my own race and take it easy for now. The urge to speed up was particularly strong when I could see Shannon-Leigh Litt ahead of me all the way along the gravel road to Hamilton Track. My rule of thumb was to ask myself if I would still be running up a slope like this in 3 hours time. If the answer was no then I slowed to a walk. As soon as we hit the track I passed Shannon, and also Reegan Absolum (15 years old) and Gerald Waters who stuck with me for the length of Hamilton. Gerald’s torch wasn’t working and Reegan’s torch died so they were glad of my bright headlight in front. Running in the dark was fun!

The first aid station at Karamatura was reached in 1:30 and Dad was there to quickly fill up my bladder and stock up my food. From the aid station it is up the Karamatura and the first of the big climbs and I changed down into low gear. Gerald caught me up at the top of Puriri Ridge and we ran together until Whatipu. The first couple of legs were very social with conversation flowing freely. Near the bottom of Puriri Ridge I got stung by a wasp on the back of my calf. It was a bit of a nuisance for the rest of the run but thankfully it didn’t swell up (until the next day). As we neared the final high point on Omanawanui track we could hear a loud buzzing. Initially I thought it must be a large wasp nest nearby but it sounded too mechanical and we realised it was the camera man’s quadrocopter flying above the ridge.

Omanawanui Ridge

Running into the Whatipu aid station the volunteers filled up my water while I grabbed a couple of bits of banana, although as far as food went I was pretty much self-sufficient. Heading up Gibbons Track I spotted a woman not far ahead (Bryony McConnell) and I gradually reeled her in. Reegan caught up to me on the steep descent of Muir track, and we ran together from here all the way to Piha. Crossing the Pararaha Stream provided some pleasant cooling relief. Here the course deviated slightly from the official Hillary Trail as the event was not allowed to go through the sand dunes at Karekare. I was happy about this because despite adding another gradual climb it avoided lots of sand running under the hot sun.

From Karekare it’s a steady climb up Comans track then a gentle run along the cliffs above Mercer Bay and along Log Race Rd and Piha Rd. I was still feeling pretty good although I could tell my legs were starting to get tired. A nice flowing downhill to Kitekite Falls followed by an easy track out to Glen Esk Rd and a kilometer or two of road to the aid station at Piha Beach. Dad was there to pass me more food and refill my water so I whizzed through the aid station. Mum told me that I was second woman so I headed out to Piha Beach with a smile on my face. Now I just had to maintain my effort for another 35km.

The sand along the beach was hard work and I think this took more out of my legs than I realised at the time. A quick toilet stop at North Piha before heading up the steep Whites track to Anawhata Rd. My legs were definitely tired now so I settled into a pace which was (relatively) comfortable. Regan came zooming past at the top and I thought that would be the last I would see of him. Turning onto Anawhata Rd I realised just how tired my legs were as I had to walk the very gentle uphill to Kuataika track. As I began the first long descent of the Kuataika rollercoaster my legs turned to jelly and I had to take it very carefully and slowly. It was nice to cool off crossing the Anawhata Stream before embarking on the climb up and over into the next valley. The long haul up the other side is always hard, but I was in a good frame of mind so it didn’t faze me. Houghtons track was quite a nice descent although I wasn’t running as freely was I would have liked. Hitting Lake Wainamu meant there was just a few km of flat to reach the aid station at Bethells. The stream was low so it was easy to run down the sandy streambed without getting shoes full of water and sand.

Above O'Neill Bay

While refilling my water at the aid station Mum asked how I was feeling. “I’m stuffed!” was my succinct answer. However, knowing this was the last leg was a great feeling and I headed off in good spirits. I spotted Reegan ahead on the climb up to the cliffs north of O’Neill Bay and every now and then as we wound in and out along the Te Henga walkway. From the clifftop it is a very satisfying feeling to look back all the way to Whatipu and ahead to Muriwai. Often this track seems to go on forever but this time I knew each twist and turn brought us closer to the end and my legs were feeling better all the time. As I came around one corner I was surprised to catch up to Reegan – he had stopped to chat to the video guy. The stairs up to Constable Rd were a welcome sight as they signaled the end of the Te Henga walkway and the final aid station.

With Reegan on Te Henga Walkway

No stopping this time and I simply grabbed some food off Dad and continued running down the road. The few kilometers of road were both a blessing and a curse: the even surface meant it was possible to get into a good rhythm and steady stride, but my feet were protesting about the constant pounding. Turning down the final track to Muriwai Beach I couldn’t stop smiling. A few hundred metres along the beach then up to the surf club. Once again I was surprised to catch up to Reegan – he and another runner had missed a turn. I crossed the finish line in 11:16:26, placing 2nd woman, and I was stoked! Completely stuffed, but stoked.

Finishing!

Jo Johansen (1st), Heather (2nd), & Bryony McConnell (4th)

Splits:

Arataki – Huia	1:32:32
Huia – Whatipu	1:35:53
Whatipu – Karekare	1:34:20
Karekare – Piha	1:26:01
Piha – Bethells	2:33:36
Bethells – Finish	2:34:05
Total	11:16:26

Race website

Results

Because It's There

This is the account of the first time I ran the Hillary Trail back in January 2012. At the time I was the youngest person to run the trail and since then I have completed the full Hillary Trail twice more, currently holding the record for fastest woman to run from Muriwai to Arataki.

Why. This word is frequently heard by endurance athletes from uninitiated people who struggle to comprehend the motivation behind thrashing your body and pushing your mental toughness for hours on end. It also a word I was asking myself in the days leading up to the Huia Road Bush Runners’ annual Hillary Trail run. Why run 73km of bush trails (with 3,700m of climbing) when ordinary 15km runs are enjoyable? The best reason I came up with was the same that George Mallory gave in 1924 when asked why he was attempting the first ascent of Everest: “Because it’s there!” My longest run to date was just under 30km so attempting the full Hillary Trail was merely doubling that distance and throwing in a bit extra for good measure. Accordingly, at 6am on the first Saturday in 2012, ten of us were assembled at the end of Horseman Road to tackle the challenge.

 

Stage 1: 14km from Goldie’s bush to Bethells Beach       2:06

With a hint of moisture hanging in the air, we started off through the bush in the half light of dawn. Conditions were perfect for running – overcast with a gentle drizzle and no wind to drive it into your face. We settled into an easy rhythm through Goldie’s Bush but despite eyes straining to make out the track, a hidden root saw me roll an ankle within 20 minutes. It was fully light by the time we reached Constable Road and the many muddy/narrow/overgrown patches on the Te Henga walkway made for interesting running with the moody west coast as a backdrop. Michael Rodliffe, Penny Kirkwood and Jim Davidson powered away, followed not too closely by the peloton of Simon Clendon, Shane Absolum, Tony Bus, Dan Roberts, and myself. Stuart met us with his camera as we loped across the bridge to complete the ‘warmup’ leg.

Stage 2: 14km from Bethells Beach to Piha                          2:11

A quick refuelling stop then it was jogging up beside the stream and over the sand dune to the conveniently placed ‘small room’. Our pack opted to take the longer official route around the northern side of Lake Wainamu despite the footprints of Jim, Michael, and Penny clearly heading towards the more direct track. A steady climb up Houghton caught us up to Max (who ran stages 2 & 4) before emerging onto the infamous Kuataika Track. The clay surface was slightly greasy from the persistent drizzle but the steep climbs seemed less dreadful than I remembered. A 200m descent down Whites track brought us into North Piha and the second support stop. Michael and Penny had hoofed it just before I arrived, with Jim further ahead. Several fresh supporting runners were waiting to tackle the next section to Karekare but Shane, Dan, and I set off first. 28km was the furthest I had ever run before, so every step beyond Piha was a journey of discovery.

Stage 3: 12.5km from Piha to Karekare                                   1:58

As we pounded along the road to Glen Esk Valley I could feel my knees tightening slightly but otherwise felt great. I was relishing the adventure. As we ascended to Kitekite falls the drizzle turned to rain which hung around for the rest of the day. A fast walk allowed me to keep up with Shane’s ceaseless shuffling run up the hill until we emerged onto Piha Road. Not far along the road we were halted by Vicki Woolley shouting to us from behind – something about “Penny” and “AWOL”. Dan turned back to find out what was going on while Shane and I continued onwards. At the end of Log Race Road Shane took the wrong entrance to the Mercer Bay Loop Walk then headed out toward the lookout on the headland. I caught sight of him in time and called him back to the correct track. Coming down Comans was a bit muddy so due caution was exercised to avoid taking a spill. Near the top we passed Jo and were soon at Karekare carpark to rendezvous with the van. A surprised Stuart enquired if we had passed Penny as she ought to have been well ahead of us by this time. Dan ended his run here as he had a wedding to attend. Everyone was surprised that Jim was not stopping at the van to resupply, but his decision to be self sufficient proved wise later on when he was too far in front to be met by the van. By now we were all completely soaked and looked (and felt) like drowned rats. A fresh pair of socks was in order, as the assorted stones and leaves collected in my shoes were starting to get irritating.

Stage 4: 10km from Karekare to Whatipu                             2:10

As we set off up Zion Hill together, Shane and I congratulated each other on achieving our first ever marathon. By this stage the tracks were saturated and seemed to have reverted to winter condition. Knowing that the halfway mark had been passed was a huge relief and I was still feeling reasonably good. It wasn’t until starting the climb up Muir track I began to notice that tiredness was creeping in. Once on Gibbons Shane kept going at a fair clip while my pace slowed due to the mud. For the first time all day I was running alone. This track has a reputation for being muddy and this was no exception. The downhill section was exposed to the cool breeze which, coupled with the fact that I hadn’t been eating as much as I should have due to the slippery technical nature of the track, soon cooled me down and I began to look forward to dry clothes at Whatipu. Cold, wet, tired, hungry, and alone – but enjoying it! The van was a welcome sight and I quickly put on a warm polyprop and refilled my water before heading up Omanawanui.

Stage5: 10km from Whatipu to Huia                                       2:39

Shane had waited for me to arrive at Whatipu and we set off together again, this time accompanied by Jonathan Douglas and his son Jake. The three of them soon disappeared and I was caught up by Tom Frentz who kindly stayed with me for this entire section even though it was mostly walking. By now I was definitely tired and my legs were getting tight. When Mum met us at the top of the Omanawanui track and asked how I was I had only one reply: “Hurting!” A steady plod brought us to the top of Karamatura Track, which is the last steep descent on the Hillary Trail. The abundance of mud and roots demanded concentration and my knees were brought to the edge of mutiny at each big step. At last the seemingly interminable downhill ended and we jogged into the last support stop. My body was telling me in no uncertain terms that it would be nice to stop here, but I was determined to finish even if I walked the last 10km to Arataki. After running 63km I wasn’t about to let a little pain and tiredness stop me now!

Stage 6: 10.5km from Huia to Arataki                                      3:00

This last stage is mostly gravel roads, with only one technical track to go: the dreaded Hamilton Track (otherwise known as where the mud monster lives). Jogging along the dam roads with Jonathan my ‘running’ got slower and slower until it was barely more than walking speed. My legs were so tight that the range of motion in my knees was inhibited, reducing me to an agonising shuffle. Finishing was now 100% certain – there were no more chances to opt out! Once at Hamilton Track, Jono raced ahead to catch up with Shane, Jake, and Richard Cross. For the second time that day I was cold, wet, tired, hungry, and alone – but this time I most decidedly was not enjoying it! The rough, muddy terrain dictated a slow pace and I soon cooled enough to don my raincoat and fantasise about dry clothes. When simply walking was a challenge, wallowing through the mud was an excruciating, energy sapping exercise. A shout from up ahead – Richard had come back looking for me and I was relieved to no longer be alone with the mud monster. This was the lowest point for me as I valiantly fought to keep from breaking down, both physically and mentally. Once back on gravel roads I attempted to jog but it was simply not going to happen. Pipeline was a little slippery, but compared to previous tracks it was a footpath. Like a horse sensing its stable, once on Slip Track my pace picked up slightly and I even managed to run down the last slope to the cheering supporters at Arataki Visitor Centre. Elation at completing the Hillary Trail was superseded by the relief of simply being able to stop after 14 hours and 4 minutes on the go.

Yes, I was stiff and sore the next day and during the run I had points where I wondered at the sanity of our endeavour. The first 50km had been easy but the final 20km required me to dig deep and summon every ounce of mental fortitude. Still, the real question is not “why?”, but WHY NOT?

Jim was the first home in 11 hours 49 minutes – not bad for his longest run in more than a decade. Michael and Shane finished before me (12:38 and 13:22 respectively) with Simon and Tony turning up only 10 minutes after I finished. Penny arrived in 14:27 hours, after her navigational errors resulted in her covering a total of 82km – 10km more than anyone else!